After nearly a decade of photographing cats, I felt it was time to turn my lens on apes. Fueled by this ambition, I ventured into the enchanting land described in Dian Fossey’s writings: The Land of Volcanoes. Nestled between Uganda and Rwanda lies a pristine forest, home to the last remaining population of the largest terrestrial mammal: the Silverback Gorilla. The name comes from the silver streak adorning the back of mature males, and witnessing them is nothing short of breathtaking. I can’t deny my excitement when friends invited me on a short trip to Rwanda; I eagerly accepted the chance to see these magnificent creatures up close. In the days leading up to the journey, I was filled with countless questions, especially about what it would feel like to gaze into the eyes of a Gorilla. I was about to discover the answer.
Upon landing in Kigali, we drove through one of the most stunning countrysides I have ever encountered. Owning coffee plantations right in your backyard feels like having a piece of paradise. Eucalyptus trees dominate the scenery, and our lodge was snugly situated atop a hill, surrounded by lush green grass and tall trees.
The next morning, we set out early to the main Park Office, where we were assigned the trekking route for the Umubano Family. The park is home to several families, and routes are allocated based on factors like group size and fitness. Once the permits were secured, we chose our guide, who began coordinating with the trackers before we embarked on our adventure.
We drove a short distance until we reached the inner park boundary, marked by stones. Along the way, our guide shared insights about the landscape and local traditions. Although the trek was not long, the high humidity made it feel quite challenging. Our guide then briefed us on the forest’s rules and regulations, including fascinating details about the apes’ behavior, and most importantly, how to handle a close encounter with a Gorilla!
Finally, we located the group, and our guide approached the dominant Silverback while we observed from a distance. He communicated in a manner akin to animal speech, seeking permission to be near the group. The request was granted, as the guide explained that one cannot enter the area or approach the group without the Silverback’s consent.
The Silverback remained somewhat distant, while the rest of the family and younger males lounged in the nearby bushes. We spotted several babies being nursed by their protective mothers, who appeared quite cautious. The males were at ease, resting or feeding in the foliage. As we moved closer, I felt the gentle stings of nettles through my protective gloves, marveling at how effortlessly the Gorillas feasted on them.
I discovered one of the young males resting nearby and spent some time photographing him; before I knew it, it was time to return. On the way back, I continued to reflect on the incredible experience of observing these Gentle Giants as they played, slept, and moved gracefully through the underbrush.
Later at the lodge, I stumbled upon a photo I had taken. Capturing the Silverback was an unforgettable experience, and the tranquility on his face brought me comfort. Despite their populations being under constant threat from various factors, the locals have made significant strides in safeguarding them. Tourism plays a crucial role in their conservation; thanks to these efforts and intensive protection, mountain gorillas have progressed from critically endangered to endangered status. Their numbers are rising, with an estimated 1,000 individuals now in the wild. On this occasion, I wish everyone a Happy World Gorilla Day! May this remarkable species thrive for many more years to come!
